A Deeper Look At Tudor: The 58 Blue Bay Vs Submariner & Rolex Watches

Today. I’m, going to review the tudor black bay 58 blue and i have to say a massive thank you to jonathan um, who has lent this watch in so graciously, and it was through my good friend derek at moyer jewelers in indiana.

As you guys know, i’m, a big customer of theirs uh they buy and sell and they are um authorized dealer for many prestigious brands, uh so derek reached out to me, and he said: oh, i ‘ Ve got the new tudor fan of the channel.

Uh would love to lend it because i didn’t mention i would. I would like to cover truden and i ‘ Ve got to be completely honest. I had no idea they had even released a blue version of the 58. The 58 was on my to-do list ever since it came out just so many watches so little time as the cliche goes, and part of the main reason why i wasn’t really aware of this.

New release is well as you’ve, probably seen, or you probably know from my channel. I’m, a big fan of the tudor submariner, the um, the original, the pre black bay, the pre rejuvenization of the tudor brand, and here it is, i’ve owned this for over a year, now still chuffed to bits, and we’ll, get into um the reasons i i’ve been a fan of tudor.

I’ve owned god. I can’t even count now, but i’m, probably half a dozen shooters now – and this is my current tudor uh, the submariner here and 40 millimeters – i’ll – put the reference number. I can never remember it but yeah.

This is the quintessential submariner from trudeau and before i get into it, i’ll. Do a quick, wristwatch check, i’m wearing my casio. This is the mission impossible. I also recently reviewed, cannot take this thing off.

This has slowly become my favorite casio. It’s, just so cool really practical. I love all the complications. The way it’s laid out, and on top of that, a very cool story. Behind it as well, anyway, let’s get into the history.

As many of you know, tudor was the creation of the founder of rolex anglophile, hans, wilson, founded it not so soon after its bigger brother in 1926 and named it after the british royal dynasty, originally intended as an affordable alternative to rolex many of the key defining Technologies, like the oyster water resistant case and rolex signed components would be included, but with outsourced movements to keep costs down, this practice would continue well into the 20th century.

My current tudor submariner 79090 is a perfect example of this, with its eta 28 24-2 movement inside and the rolex signed oyster case and signed screw down crown. If you saw one of my older videos on underrated, tudor watches it’s, clear that the brand soon started to forge its own range of distinctive models, while simultaneously still providing more economical options of rolex classics like day dates, which then morphed into the Later glamour, and now the royal watches their versions of the explorer, with the ranger, their own interpretation of the classic rolex datejust, with the prince dates and, of course, their prince date, chronographs.

Instead of rolex’s, quintessential daytona and naturally, of course, submariners as well, the best examples of the brand trying new things in case you missed my earlier video on um underrated, tudor watches is, without a doubt, the 1957 advisor.

The first watch featuring an alarm complication. Another watch is the tudor oyster thin from the same year, that featured an oyster water resistant case. Only an astounding six millimeters tall, or perhaps the greatest watch, unlike rolex, was the 1976 monte carlo, as the name suggests it’s, a racing chronograph with vivid colors and bold styling that very much forged a legacy and cult following of its own and Made it more of a rival than a mere alternative to the rolex daytona.

However, it is the black bay and all it’s now, seemingly endless variations that have truly carried the brand into being a powerhouse in its own right as chronicled in detail. Many times on the channel, its origins lie in the tudor submariners that they back all the way to 1954.

The same year we saw the birth of the rolex sub. This evolution would span half a century and parallel its rolex cousin closely in the early stages. But, unlike rolex, its culmination would be the creation of two spin-off collections, one being the ultimate expression of a modern tool watch with the pelagos and the second, the vintage inspired black bay, both introduced in 2012, but we are skipping ahead here.

Let’s. Rewind to the most defining moment of tudor and its lineage, an era that has forever made judah divers legendary in 1964, the no date tudor submariner reference 7928, which i’ve, also reviewed, was issued to the us navy.

This would usher in a new era of tudor supplying military forces around the world, eventually leading to its most famous and long-standing collaboration with france’s, marine national that lasted from the 60s all the way until the 1980s.

In fact, many were not aware that, with the very first tudor subs, the french navy was involved in field research to test them as diving watches. This real world testing resulted in the tudor sub gaining one of its most unique characteristics: the snowflake handset and squared markers in 1969, with the reference 7016.

The purpose of this dramatic change was simple, larger and bolder shapes to make it more effective in low light, by increasing the surface area, therefore, more luminescent and, of course, being more legible at a quick glance.

This is not only a brave breakaway from the rolex mould, but a perfect example of tudor’s, more daring, unconventional approach and willingness to try new things, the largely overlooked: hydronaut divers from 1999, for example, or the reissued an unusual p01 black bay from 2019 are further examples.

This risky mindset has had its fair shares of hits and misses along the way, but ultimately it has helped tudor break away from the rolex shadow and eventually create a strong identity of its own. This way of thinking and different approach compared to the more conventional and safer ways of rolex is deeply linked to the brand’s, name and again, another important point which fans often forget when discussing this brand.

So why the tudor royal dynasty in particular? Well, they are famous for many things, including henry viii and his six wives, the exploration of america and the plays of william shakespeare, of course.

But during the 16th century england emerged from the medieval world and it was a great time of change, most notably as a rising power in europe, especially under the last monarch of the tudor family queen and elizabeth, the first who made england richer than ever before.

The tudor family, who always dared to be different, ruled for a collective 118 years and the culmination of which was setting england on a path of expansion, enlightenment and conquest. That would change the world as we know it.

In the following centuries, trudeau used the rolex water-resistant oyster case as the backbone for the tudor brand to much success and even earlier claim – and this was from the very start in a similar fashion.

The tudor dynasty also began the great english seafaring tradition. Another fitting nautical connection between the brand and british history, as always, let’s, get the dimensions out of the way diameter is shy of 39 millimeters.

In fact, and i have to say, the the bezel is flush with the case. The height is 11.6 millimeters, a really nice slenderness there lug to lug. We’re looking at 47.1 and the lug width is 20 millimeters.

So yeah i mean it’s, pretty obvious it’s. It’s, got some of the best dimensions uh. You could possibly ask for in a contemporary vintage inspired watch. So let’s, get the weight in there quickly. Let’s, see let’s.

Zero! It yeah! There we go now i’ll. Add the extra links that i took out just to get it more precise, yeah, 134 grams there, which is to be expected a decent weight, not too heavy, not too light in terms of materials.

Well, you have your standard stainless steel, not the special steel of rolex, but nevertheless it is done exquisitely well, i have to say the finishing and everything we have quite a flat uh oyster case.

The crystal is a domed sapphire crystal a lot less boxy than your vintage sub. As you can see there, it’s, a nicely gently slope up unidirectional 60 click bezel and i have to say it feels very, very solid, indeed, lines up perfectly.

The insert is aluminium now this particular version. Then you can get it on a slightly for less on this very very beautifully made fabric strap. But this one comes on a oyster style bracelets with a fold-over clasp.

I’m going to return to this later on because we should discuss it. A little trigger there for the lock there very nice, so inside is the new automatic in-house manufactured caliber mt-5402. This is actually tudor’s.

Second, family of um proprietary movements – and it was released three years after the introduction of its first in-house caliber and it is kosk certified, which is just fantastic. It does have a very tall-tastic, sparse, look uh with its sandblasted and laser etched finishing it’s.

Bi-Directional has an open-work rotor, so it’s kind of semi skeletonized. There is no exhibition case back just your standard screwing case back very faithful to the rolex tudor tradition, but what is fantastic about this particular movement? Aside from its accuracy? Is it has a 70 hour power reserve, making it a great everyday watch that you can take off for the weekend and it will still be going on monday? I just love it when a watch has that and they haven’t sacrificed.

The frequency either still got the super smooth 28 800 vibrations an hour. The rolex influence is extremely strong here and if you look at the structure, it has been designed specifically to ensure robustness and reliability by having a variable inertia, balance, which is maintained by a more sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation.

And i must say when you unscrew the unguarded crown it does have a very pleasingly reassuring quality feel to the manual wind and, of course, if we pull it all the way out, you’ll see we have hacking as well.

What i do like about the thick collared crown here on the tudor black base is there’s very little wobble extremely reassuringly sturdy. The case itself is quite bold. We do have lovely beveled, high, polished, edges, high polish, on the side, and then we have satin finish pretty much everywhere else and i think the standards of manufacturing um have not changed.

I mean i owned one of the first generations of black bays. As you guys know, i’m, a huge tudor fan. I was intruded before the brand had its relaunch in when was it 2013 or something around then? But you know i i jumped on the bandwagon.

Unfortunately, they were too large at the time and the honeymoon kind of fell apart and i had an inkling. They would always go smaller. Well, i helped and that’s, actually why i went to the vintage subs they had.

The 36 was an absolute bargain on the used market and i never looked back and hence why i didn’t even know. This was released until like a week ago, and i’m, recording this uh in september. By the way, i believe this came out when was it sometime in the summer, who knows anyway, so i can attest to the quality, has definitely been consistent compared to the initial release of the very first generation.

The c3 luminova is impeccable, not quite rolex chromalight standards. Um, in my opinion, but the orientation is outstanding because love or love the snowflake hands they’re, easy to differentiate the hours from minutes and seconds it’s very, very effective and just as the divisive design was initially intended to be.

The lack of date also does give it a very clean pleasing symmetry. Great balance, which again kind of not just stylistically, makes it more pleasing, but also boosts that orientation in low light. And while we’re on the subject of um hands, i i got ta say i like them.

I think the way they reach right to the end i mean, if you just look at my sub there, it’s unequivocally easier to read these. The snowflake hands are more efficient. That’s, just the truth. Look at the way! The second hand really reaches um.

I even like the more pronounced way they are stacked in the center uh compared to my old sub. These almost look undersized in comparison and in terms of the actual links there are, of course, screwed links.

The manufacturing on everything is absolutely tip top, so hats off there. So let’s start off with the most imperative difference. With this new version, the blue. Now it’s, neither the softened matte royal blue of the pelagos.

Nor is it the more vivid persian glossy blue of the vintage subs. It’s, more of them, an admiral blue. I would say giving it a very understated, look which i actually have to say. I really approve of it tends to clash less with other colors.

It actually reminds me of the first aqueous i owned all those moons ago. The lack of big crown guard and the oversized crown itself, which is inspired by the 1958. Tudor 7924 is a very fitting reference to draw inspiration from, and you know – hence the name of course, but it was crucial to the history of tudor because it was their first 200 meter.

Rated reference in the tudor subs history now gone is the red triangle and the gilt printing, of course, that we saw in the black that um obviously drew inspiration from the first generation of subs. They’ve gone for the post 69 shield logo, which is echoed in the clasp, and i love this.

This is a really nifty. You see the fold over. There see how they’ve included the heraldic shield there very cool indeed, and actually it’s. It’s quite practical as well, and talking of heraldry uh.

The only time we actually see the tudor rose is on that beautiful relief on the side crown there a nice touch at the rose within the rolls, of course, which is a lovely nod to its british history and, of course, the brand’s heritage.

In terms of the dial layout um, this is unequivocally taken from the first generations of subs from the late 50s. The minute track and the shape of the markers is essentially unchanged from those early references.

However, it is modernized by having the markers applied and framed rather than simply printed the first you did to do. This was, of course, the last gen subs from 1995 that i previously owned the highly underrated 79190.

However, the printing color is a dulled grayish silver. Very much like the reference 7928 from uh 1964., so you begin to see that the black bay pulls styles and um influences from almost every era of this eclectic mix is then combined with perhaps its most puzzling, uh little style trait.

This element is seldom talked about. Surprisingly, nobody ever mentions it, but gone is the semi-circular indentations on the bezel edge in favor of this coin edge which, if you look at the history? Well, if you know the history of tudor subs, they never had coin edges and it’s.

Uh an unusual decision, the only thing i can conclude is that it’s, a perhaps an ode to the black panther 50 fathoms, the progenitor of all modern dive, watches or perhaps even the later 1957 super ocean by breitling.

In fact, squire also used um this bezel edge in the early 1960s watches they made for black band as well. So a lot of um divers of that era had it did they do this deliberately to kind of underline its vintage uh? Oh, it’s, general vintage aesthetics, who knows now the classic submariner had combinations of triangles and circles.

But then, when the snowflake came in, for example, with the reference 94010, we had rectangles instead, which obviously complemented the snowflake hands far better and it’s. A shame they didn’t go with triangles as well, because this combination of triangles is the only thing you can really help distinguish a tudor sub from a distance.

Aside from the branding, of course, to your rolex, there, wasn’t really that many uh aesthetic differences in the non-snowflake versions. It’s, a shame they they went with the more rolex layout, but anyway, i guess we’re.

Getting into negatives territory, so let’s start with the positives, [ Music ]. Well, in my opinion, this is the watch enthusiasts rolex or you could say the contrarian rolex. If you will, when you see this in the wild, you know the person is either into watches or just has great taste i mean you know it’s, pretty obvious, naturally, performance wise and aside from a few minor issues, it’s Outstanding, while not omega metas levels, it does compete with any rolex on the accuracy front.

Proportionally speaking, it is absolute perfection. I love the scale of everything it’s extremely comfortable. It’s, also relatively thin, so you can wear it for more formal at a time. Yes, i know it’s a faux pas, but we’ve.

Had that discussion a million times it’s, a really pleasing blend of elegance and practicality at the end of the day, for once i don’t have to complain about oversizing, even if it’s taken a half day.

Half a decade to get here, it wears extremely well there’s, none of the aspirational luxury connotations well at least i don’t think so, yet it feels more honest than a rolex. You know, and also something we should mention, is that now you can get a five-year transferable guarantee with no registration or periodic maintenance checks.

When you buy new and i think tudor are being very clever about selling their watches online, it’s. An intelligent move to combat the evils of the grey market and in fact, this one of the few brands that i would ever consider buying new, because i think the value is just impeccable, i mean do i even have to mention its in-house movement and all the Rest of it, i think, the retail price, considering all these factors is spot on and, lastly, another um classic urban gentry cliche phrase of mine.

It does absolutely qualify as a strat monster. Despite the blue. The blues are strained enough to work well with most leather nato rubber, strap combinations. It pairs extremely nicely with sounds like i’m talking about wine, but it pairs very nicely with olive, green browns, blacks, grays, orange, even yellow and naturally blue as well.

So let’s, discuss negatives and unfortunately there were quite a few negatives now. It is no secret that i have a very strong affection for the brand. However, one could say that uh this tudor is an example of yesterday’s.

Uh left field choice of the purest becoming mainstream as a shooter fan from way before everyone jumped on them. Has it become a bit of a cliche in watch circles? And now you have ambassadors, which i’ve, also discussed at great length like david beckham and lady gaga, championing the brand it no longer being actually issued to elite.

Combat divers anymore has the original tudor lustre worn off? I guess this is more questions for you guys to discuss in the comments, but please do let me know your opinions. Well, it depends. I would actually rather see a person wearing this than just another boring modern submariner.

Well, they’re, not boring. They’re, amazing watchers, but you know what i mean, but that is all perception. What about the physical issues? Well, there is no loom in the bezel uh. I think amiga are now fixing that with their new releases.

I would like to see that, of course we have the loom pip, but you know let’s, see some loomed. Bezels guys come on, especially at this price, and while it doesn’t have any of the faux patina and stuff the the rivets, which are basically trying to mimic the classic oyster bracelets feels completely unnecessary.

There is no actual practical reason for them to be there. They’re purely aesthetic reasons, and i really feel that truly missed a trick here. If you guys remember, i looked at a paul newman daytona donkeys years ago in the riveted bracelets of that.

During that time they had little springs in them, so they expanded almost like a stretchy bracelet. I’d love to see um truda bring back something like that to even add to the comfort and that kind of leads on nicely to another negative.

There’s. Only three uh spring bar adjustments. There’s, no extension. Clasp for a dive watch, quite unheard of which is weird you even get it on very, very economical watches. It was a little bit of a pain to fit.

I’m kind of in between a link, so it was either too tight or too loose, and these three options – didn’t, actually get it right for me now we all vary, so it might be absolutely fine for you. But for me it was a bit tricky to properly size.

Now, if you don’t like the snowflake hands, which i completely understand, you’re, not going to like this in looking at it. I realized that every time the snowflake hands were used, they always work better with the matching square markers like the reference 7016 or, for example, the modern palagos.

They complement the squared shapes this combination of snowflake hands, but then triangles and circles from the mercedes handed dials. You could say: does it does it work? Does it it’s a bit of a mish-mash? Perhaps it would have been better with the squared markers who knows, go all the way, instead of this kind of um blending or confluence of styles.

Now you know i’m, going to say this, but i do miss the rose logo for me that connection to dear old england. It would have been nice to see – and i think, if you’re, going to do something that is vintage inspired.

Why not have the vintage logo let the palagos let the whatever modern divers are coming? Let them have a shield and as any history, buff or anglophile like me, who grew up visiting hampton court palace on the weekend and it’s, a charming touch and i just wish they would have included it another negative.

Is it’s not going to be easy or affordable to service compared to your eta, and that is something i absolutely adore about pretty much every single tudor i’ve ever owned yeah. Actually, every single trudeau i’ve owned.

You know i’ve owned uh. How many now half a dozen who knows whenever i had to service it? It’s. 200 odd dollars, perhaps a little more for a full movement service by any decent, independent watchmaker.

And, of course, there is an abundance of spare eta parts and that’s. Why it’s so affordable. If you had to service this, you’re gonna have to send it back to tudor a big issue for me and another reason why i absolutely adore my sub is the crown i am not a fan of this crown.

I think it’s a little bit too flat. It’s, not the most ergonomic uh. While it is very sturdy, as i mentioned earlier, you cannot beat your typical rolex style. The triplock crown there when you unscrew it and you pull it out it’s huge you just grip it.

It’s, a pleasure to wind this. I’m so used to this now and the way that you know the lack of crown guards don’t make a jot of difference because they’re around it. So you just got a really good grip on it.

It’s, so much easier to manipulate and again i i suspect this is a foreign influence, because this is not really anything like your typical tudor and rolex crowns kind of goes back to what i was saying about the bezel hedge.

While we’re on the subject, these bezels are far easier to control. I would have loved to see a mercedes-hands version of this. I think it would have been a lot more fitting the markers and i think there is enough differences in its overall design to stand apart.

Yes, i can understand why they went snowflake. Of course it is distinctive and unique to trudeau, but so is mercedes hands. They belong to judah, just as much i mean yes, you’re, always going to get people that erroneously say: oh, it’s, just a rolex homage and because they just don’t know how much history the tudor has, But that’s, their issue, that’s, not your problem, okay, last and by no means least, is the strap.

Now they have a very beautifully made woven fabric, nato hybrid, you could say, but historically tudor has always been supplied in bulk to their military buyers without any bracelet. In fact, the u.s navy seals used rubber, straps and later on british nato star straps.

While the french came up with a very practical solution and a real stroker genius, they would take this stretchy material from their parachute bags and cut it into straps and use them. Uh the same way in nato strap, so you you throw it through very, very secure, very comfortable, very practical and, of course, water resistant.

I would have loved to see tudor do something similar or if you wanted, to bring some historical accuracy and very similitude to the strap. I would have partnered with ndc. For example, the only company in the world that uses the genuine new old stock military issued material from france to make their strap uh it’s, the real mccoy uh.

Yes, there’s, a lot of imitations out there, but this is the the real deal, but i understand these are available only in a limited amount. It might have been an issue to supply um. God knows how many um shooter black bears.

They they make now but um. I just think that it would have been a great partnership, because also this is a direct connection to its military uh heritage. Uh. The tudor submariner has been supplied and i’m talking, numerically in more quantities uh than the rolex, the famous mill sub ever was um, so it’s.

It’s, a bit weird, that the meal sub is so revered when the tudor’s a little bit kind of forgotten about voice. Anyway, oh – and i guess i should say i do miss um – the drilled lug holes. If you’re going to um change out the straps, it would have been a really welcomed addition to have drilled lug holes.

Considering it is so compatible that’s, a shame they didn’t. Do it like on my [ Music, ] subbie? So in conclusion, it’s, a subtle but elegant watch, but don’t, let its uh handsome styling for you. It is absolutely capable of taking a beating, even more so than its um military ancestors.

However, i have to be truthful here for me um. You know i’m, not going to pretend i loved it, because everyone else does it simply didn’t click with me. Personally, maybe that’s, because i have my vintage sub here, but i know many will absolutely adore.

It it will probably do everything my sub does for me and it is unequivocally pure class. My vintage sub uh. It feels slightly less of a mishmash, and i like that, more direct link to its heritage, whereas this is, it feels a little bit more distant, but it is its own thing.

That is something it has more than this. So, while the prices of vintage subs are absolutely skyrocketing, this is more accessible at the end of the day, the 58 is undeniably a great quality and a good value too, which is rare in luxury watches.

Let’s. Let’s. Be honest in many ways: tudor is what rolex used to be before it became a overpriced, well, distastefully, overpriced status and aspirational uh symbol. Now, a few weeks ago, i shared a video about designing my ultimate fantasy james bond watch and if amiga was no longer to continue that partnership, i asked the audience what would be a great brand to take their place.

Well, you know what i’m, quite surprised, not many of you guys said tudor, because i think undoubtedly it would be my first choice. It is a truly great do-it-all watch in that ultimate bonding tradition of from tux to swimming pool and from adventure to just you know, looking cool and if you are looking for that, do it all everyday piece.

This is unequivocally it, and now it’s blue. It does kind of remind me of the brosnan era. Sea master a little bit. It’s kind of going in that direction. It has that lovable versatility, masculine charm, dive time bezel.

That makes divers so compelling anyway, guys i’m gonna leave it there do. Let me know your thoughts uh. What do you think tudor getting right? What do you think they’re getting wrong? How does it compare to rolex now? Um i’d love to hear feedback on this relationship.

I find it absolutely fascinating, but yeah. Thank you very, very much for watching. Please don’t forget to like this video. It really does help, especially to support the channel. I don’t, ask for patreon or anything like that and uh yeah.

I’ll catch you in the next one: okay, ciao

Source : Youtube
 


Today’s video covers absolutely everything you need to know about the Tudor Black Bay Blue 58. In a world full of vapid watch videos that give little nutrition to your mind like fast food, here at the Urban Gentry we like to give you a full, hearty meal!

As the good Gentry knows, I have been a Tudor owner and fan long before they were trendy. But after years of putting it off, mainly due to my own penchant for their vintage pieces, it’s time to revisit and delve a little deeper with their latest 2020 Black Bay 58 Blue diver watch. But this watch is far more than a mere colour change, so join me today to find out why!


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