Mine will survive long after i’m gone okay, hi guys and welcome to the show, and today we are finally getting uh to review the no time to die official amiga sea master 300.
This is the bond watch. My jewelers have once again stepped in to save the day. I am a personal customer. I’ve, bought and sold from them. They are not only very generous in lending this watch in, but one of the most professional authorized dealers for amiga and a whole host of other illustrious brands, um too many to to mention.
So i highly do recommend them. As you can imagine, i am really chuffed to bits to finally get my greedy horological mitts onto this piece here now. I i’ll. Do a quick, wristwatch check as we are in seamaster territory? I’m wearing my vintage.
I think it’s 1958 or seven. I can’t quite remember. I recently picked this up before an absolute bargain price, still adore it um the heyday of amiga, and i i’m, just extremely pleased to have found one with an unpainted untouched dial, as you can see, by the lettering of the seamaster.
For example, anybody worth their salt can instantly see that it is um untouched. So i’m, very, very happy about that. Having a master in my personal collection again really does feel uh. Well, i’ve owned, so many does it just feels great now, before we get into the history of the sea master a little bit of context about the sea master range, because we have seen several big releases in the last few years, especially as We bond fans eagerly await the much delayed latest installment uh, with no time to die in the last bond movie spectre in 2015, 007 wore two amigas.
In fact, a vintage inspired sea master 300. The spectre limited edition, with the rare lollipop seconds hand on a black and gray nato, which very much set a trend for the subsequent few years, and the second watch was the far more dressy aqua terra 150 meter with that striking blue dial during the production of No time to die in the last few years, daniel craig has then surfaced to promote a newly redesigned and upgraded seamaster 300 professional, which i naturally immediately reviewed.
It sparked off much speculation. That bond would be returning to the 300 meter rather than just the 300, as 2019 drew to an end. The inevitable announcement came sparking a viral post on the urban gentry instagram.
An incredible amount of hype then followed, especially as everyone was really anticipating the movie and then with the unfortunate delay due to world events. Amiga have since released the numbered edition, which came in platinum, steel and gold versions.
This was originally planned to coincide with the movie premiere. I mean it obviously went ahead, but what makes today’s watch particularly unique is two things. Firstly, this is not in limited quantity and, secondly, it was actually built with military needs in mind, and the final design was influenced by daniel craig’s.
Own experience, as james bond, which i think is very very unique. Amiga is certainly no stranger on the channel and i have shared its long legacy many times founded in 1848. The swiss luxury watchmaker is, without a doubt, one of the most illustrious and well-known brands of all time when we think amiga, we automatically think of speed masters.
The choice of nasa and the first watch on the moon in 1969, among many other achievements, of course, but the seamaster line is even more prestigious in some ways: it’s, the brand’s longest or continuously running line of watches, and Perfectly demonstrates the brand’s, evolution from traditional, high precision, mechanical watchmaker to a luxury cultural icon, but before becoming the choice of james bond in 1995, with pierce brosnan omega and the british military have been inextricably linked ever since the royal flying corps used Them in 1917, as their official timekeepers for their combat units, as did the u.
s american army, in fact in 1918. But what is more, astonishing and often overlooked when it comes to amiga, is how they were already conquering the depths of the ocean decades before the first. True luxury dive, watches by blampa and subsequently rolex all the way back in 1932, amiga debuted its marine watch, which was worn by eve le preer, who many consider to be the father of modern diving.
He was a french naval officer and inventor of the modern scuba mask and tank first launched in 1948 to commemorate the 100 year anniversary of amiga. The seamaster line was loosely based upon designs made for the british royal navy towards the end of world war ii.
In fact, a more refined caliber of the legendary manual wind 30 t2 in my omega spitfire pilot watch can be found in many of the early sea masters, going by a different name, of course, by the end of the war.
Amiga had solidified its reputation for accuracy and reliability, and so much so that field marshal bernard montgomery personally visited the factory in switzerland after the war. The first omega seamaster was a rather dressy looking affair and modelled after the waterproof wristwatches made specifically and worn by the british military during the war.
What distinguished the sea master from its diving watch predecessor was the o-ring gasket, which improved its water resistance. Amiga turned to submarines used during the conflict for inspiration and included a resilient rubber gasket in the seamaster’s final design.
This new case remained intact at depths up to 60 meters and temperature ranges between minus 40 to 50 degrees celsius. Their engineers were so confident of the seamaster’s, durability. They attached one to the outside of an aircraft and flew it over the north pole in 1956.
By the end of the 1950s, many brands, like those previously mentioned and countless others for that matter, had started producing dive, watches, spurred on by the rise in recreational diving. It was time amelia got a piece of the action too.
So in 1957 this was perhaps one of amiga’s. Influential years the sea master 300 was born in their most iconic trio. Alongside the speedy and, of course, the rail master, the sea master 300 would go on to be issued once again to the british ministry of defense and worn by famed oceanographer jacques cousteau’s team during their 1963 con shelf 2 experiments in the red Sea with the success of the sea master, the range then expanded rapidly over the following decades, with a whole host of record-breaking and innovative dive watches throughout the 1960s and 70s.
Like the helium proof, plo prof, designed to meet the needs of ultra deep saturation, diving and the direct response to rolex developing the first automatic helium escape valve. So when it came to succeed, the iconic sea master of the 1990s, the seamaster planet ocean, was introduced in 2005 as a large diving watch to ensure water resistance down to 2000 feet or 600 meters.
This evolution then culminated in 2011 with models like the one we’re looking at today, which featured a master chronometer rated [, Music ] movement. As always, let’s start with dimensions. First, we ‘
Ve got a diameter of 42 millimeters with the bezel being flush with the case. The height is just a smidgen over 12 millimeters luck to lag. We’re, looking at 48 millimeters and a lug width of 20 millimeters, so a very contemporary scale.
Uh. Quite large, but generally with the exception of its thickness, pretty much the same as your regular sea master. Now the material as you’ve noticed by this darker color, is entirely grayed to titanium, which makes it particularly strong and lighter, and just to give you an idea.
If we pop the scales down there, it’s nicely zeroed. Let’s, have a look. It’s about 73 grams. Now this is remarkably light. So in fact, almost half the weight of your average steel seamaster in the equivalent size.
We have a gently, very gently, domed, sapphire, glass, sitting smoothly. Above the bezel very much giving it a vintagey style distortions, as you turn it on the inside of the glass, we have anti-reflective treatment, as you can see from that purplish hue.
This lightness and new uh slimmer profile gives the watch an incredible amount of comfort. I i have to agree, i was expecting it to be too big, but you hardly notice when you’re wearing it and in a military context where every single gram counts.
This is where it succeeds masterfully. The finishing is also remarkably different. There is no high polished surfaces, the dollar ash, colored gray, that is in a brushed and bead blasted finish, as you see, on the back there very low key compared to your typical shiny, high polished surfaces.
This is very deliberate and reminds me of the parkerized finish of my vietnam era: mil-spec benrus field. Watch. If you remember that piece those were designed specifically, so it would not reflect light and reveal your position accidentally to the enemy.
This is perfect for a commando or in the case of commander bond. You know so it’s. A really nice stealthy look and i think it actually does work to a degree and we ‘ Ll discuss the color scheme in a moment, but it does work really well, in particular with the matte finish of the bezel and, of course, that tropical textured dark, gray, dial kind of off black, really the bezel insert and the dial are actually the same material.
They’re made out of aluminium, but what they’ve done, and i really do appreciate this – is they’ve, given it a full loomed up bezel so now, with full elimination, we have super luminova, not just on the Hands the applied indices and the loom pip at 12, but all the way around – and it is absolutely breathtaking – you get astounding orientation very easy to differentiate between the markers because of these clearly defined bold shapes.
As you see so, you always know where 12 o ‘ Clock is with the double markers, obviously so in low light legibility, it’s just perfect. Now, once again, amiga have gone to the trouble of cleverly having different colors for the loom of the minute hand and the pip in the triangle of the bezel, the most crucial hand to a diver or soldier using it for operations in conjunction with the dive time.
Bezel, of course, they are in a neon green as opposed to the arctic blue glow of everything else. The bezel is unidirectional 120 click. It is very hard to um turn with gloves on, which is surprising, as in the film you see bond with the those german tactical gloves, which i actually have a pair of those without gloves it’s very, very easy, but again it’s the it’s, the um, the old achilles heel of the scalloped bezel.
Admittedly, it does feel a little bit plasticky to the to the click, but this is due to the lighter titanium. However, its accuracy and actual um lining up is is perfect. It’s, just that i’m, not really used to titanium um, so at first that he might you kind of need to get used to it.
I guess, as with all post sea masters of the brosnan era, we have the instantly recognizable helium escape valve at the 10, o’clock and then your conventional screw down crown, which is guarded with those lovely, rounded um crown guards at the three o’clock and they are both individually signed, periodic table.
He and the amiga greek letter brand logo. Unlike most modern sea monsters, the nyad lock scoot case back is very very flat. Indeed, it’s, a simple affair, no beasts of ancient greek mythology. Here the hippocampus has been sacrificed to go for more british military-inspired engraving.
We have, of course, the broad arrow logo there and some numbers kind of mimicking the army-issued mil-spec ancestors of many decades ago. It’s worthy to mention that this watch either comes on the nato strap it’s beautifully striped.
I love the khaki combination or you get a choice of the mesh. It’s, a shame i didn’t, get to borrow the one with the mesh. I was quite excited about that, but whichever you choose, they are all signed with little engravings a lot of detail.
007 there on one of the keepers, for example the brand logo name and also matching titanium metal there and as nato straps go. This feels very substantial and very luxurious a little bit ironic, considering that a native strap is meant to be very utilitarian and cheap to produce so and astonishingly, there’s about a grand difference in price.
If you decide to go with either the milanese mesh or the nato strap, as you see here inside, we have the amiga automatic calibre 880, as it doesn’t have a display back. I’ll use uh some footage from the planet ocean which has a similar movement, almost indistinct in architecture.
Just to give you an idea of what it looks like if you were to remove the case back. This is a master chronometer, certified metas tested it’s completely in-house produced a true marvel of engineering – and i’m – really pleased about this, because it’s.
A return to competitive, uh cutting edge mechanical movements before the slightly dodgy 70s and the fallout from the quartz crisis. I mean these movements have been the culminations of decades of improvement and and evolution, and not only do we have the coaxial escapement, which is the biggest change to one of the most significant horological advancements since the invention of the traditional lever escapement.
But we also get a free, sprung balance. Silicon balance spring bi-directional, winding stunningly beautiful rhodium plated finish with this geneva waves and an arabesque pattern that really highlights the sense of motion, but for those who missed out my many videos on the subject by utilizing radial friction.
Instead of sliding friction at the impulse surfaces, the coaxial manages to significantly reduce friction and theoretically results in a longer service interval and, of course, greater accuracy over a longer period of time to further boost the efficiency and longevity of the movement.
Amiga used the unusual uh frequency of 25 200 vibrations an hour. It’s, also much more resistant to magnetic fields, reaching 15 000 gores and has the healthy powers of 55 hours, and it goes without saying.
It is, of course, hackable, and you also get a delightfully, smooth and refined feeling manual wind. Now, as we look at the case shape it very much is quintessential amiga with those twisted lugs that go all the way back to the cadillac winged aesthetic of the 1950s.
They’re, very elegant and also actually practical. I’ve got to say as well. There’s, a refreshing absence of date. You’ll notice on the dial, which gives the layout a very clean and beautiful sense of balance and symmetry, but essentially in a utilitarian context, less complications, less chances of things going wrong in the field.
The rolex no date explorer worn by fleming and the bond submariners are perfect examples of this kind of simpler form and function. Thinking there’s, a lovely red tip to the seconds hand, complemented by the red italic sign seamaster under the printed brand logo.
Of course, they’ve done away with the superfluous kind of extra decoration and then those very instantly recognizable semi-skeletonized sword handset. While it is a bit of a contentious choice for some, i absolutely love it.
They do a good job of distinguishing the hours from minutes, so, of course, for the hours we have a circle for the minutes. It’s longer with a triangle in the end, but for the minute markings at the periphery of the dial they’ve gone that sector look which actually, if you look at it head on you, don’t, really notice.
It but then, if you look at it at an angle, you see the little sections this was adopted with the more recent 300 meter sea masters and the gilt coloring of the printing works, especially well with the grainy texture of that uh tropicalized dial finish, and it Works well together.
The arrow above the six o’clock mark is an interesting addition. It’s called the broad arrow, which means well traditionally meant that it was issued to the british military and unfortunately, the symbol is not protected.
As we see here, and it has lately been used on watches that were never issued, the broad arrow symbol actually has heraldic roots and is a stylized or simplified representation of a metal arrowhead. It is a symbol used by the british government to mark uh government property and it became particularly associated with the board of ordinance and later the war department and ministry of defense.
Inevitably, it was exported to other parts of the british empire, but in terms of horology you can see in military, marine chronometers and, of course, the watches during both world wars and so on, [, Music, ].
So let’s, discuss the positives. Well, this is the best of amiga in terms of heritage, mechanical engineering and horological relevance. The quality of the production is is unquestionably impeccably well made.
I could not find a single fault with it on a technical level. Its cultural significance, with its direct association with the greatest movie franchise of all time, will undoubtedly immortalize it as a classic and help to protect its value.
But, crucially, no matter how you feel about its aesthetics. It performs and it really does deliver it’s beyond cost inaccuracy and thanks to the more rigorous standards of amigas and metas testing, it was barely a few seconds off outstanding and really rock solid.
I mean these are: these are built like tanks, undoubtedly from the inside out too it’s, also refreshing that it’s slenderness compared to most seam masters. Just to give it a bit of context, the very first quartz bond seam master from goldeneye was a very dressy 11.
5 millimeters. This is barely a millimeter more than that, and it wears a lot smaller because it’s thinner but at the same time, a very bold and masculine scale. That is extremely legible and divers are supposed to be bigger.
Would i like a smaller size, of course, but we’ll, discuss that in just a moment. The general size, though, will please most wrists. Even on my six and a half inch wrist, i didn’t feel it was overpowering.
I love the mesh version. It’s already started a new trend um. Just the same way. The gray and black native strap from spectre permeated into every facet of watch collecting and became very in vogue. I can see the millionaires are going.
The same way it already has, i know the second. I saw the trailer for the first time i i pulled out the old mesh and and put it on half of my divers. You know instantly, but beyond that, just like the nato strap it’s very, very comfortable as well, and i think it’s.
A smart move uh by amiga, especially as it evokes a connection to or a link to the great divers in their rich legacy, like the plo prof, my biggest positive has to be for this watch the absence of date.
It’s, not just a cool nod to fleming’s own preferences, but also the great amiga military watches. The anti-magnetic properties makes it very relevant and practical in today’s digital world and even more so for o7.
Surprisingly, there were more negatives for me, uh with this watch than there were positives. So let’s, get to the elephant in the room right off the bat. Shall we, the faux patina coloring, is well way over the top.
In my opinion, it’s, kind of like a dijon, mustard, yellow and i think in low light, even looks brown. Now. Of course, you can get vintage watches that have discolored to this extent, but i’ve, never seen a watch from the 90s age this dramatically.
It obviously is a seamaster 300m and not a vintage piece that has tritium loom, of course. So it feels a little bit kind of forced um, a little jejune, even or maybe anachronistic. I think a more subtle approach would have been really more appropriate if you look at the 30 atmos psycho design, for example, the faux patina was more fitting there because it’s.
A tribute to a famous dive watch, squireller made for blampa in the 1960s, and we used a much more restrained tone, and i just think that was a good balance, because it was relevant to that time period relevant to that style of the watch.
At the end of the day, this is um. The sea master 300 meter professional didn’t exist back in the day, so it’s kind of a little bit strange and the 21st century scale also being 42 millimeters kind of highlights that i mean, with the exception of the plo Prof, which was a deep timing, saturation diver watches, were never this big.
If we think about it, this darker tone does actually undermine its military efficiency. A crisp modern white would actually be better suited, rather than patina it’s a little bit confused there. I feel, and due to the titanium, strap compatibility is going to suffer a little bit if you’re, very particular about matching the hardware to the main case.
As i am, you’re, going to probably find it a little bit difficult to to complement the watch again. This is more of a minor annoyance and, as we mentioned earlier, the scalloped edge bezel is very difficult to grip with gloves on.
If you are going to be in the field, i think a a coin edge or cog style teeth like the planet ocean would have been far more efficient. Another slight negative is by sacrificing the steel and having this uniformed finish.
You don’t, get that resplendent mirror finish there, which limits the watch. I think sartorially. This is a lot more tactical. Looking one thing, i really did adore about the some of the previous daniel craig amigas and in particular the brosnan seamaster, was the compatibility not just in whatever environment you were in, but no matter.
If you are in a tux uh faux paring it or dressed casual and going to the beach, it worked with everything it had that ultimate dressy, but toolish elegance kind of like bond himself. Really. However, it is clear, as previously discussed in my last video, that bond is no longer a one watch guy, so perhaps when he needs to look a little bit more refined, he simply sports his aqua terror um.
So while it looks great on the no time to die poster and his commander gear, in my opinion, it looks a little bit off when paired with his tux, as we have seen in some of the promotional material. Another possible negative is the use of the arrow.
It might upset some of the purists. Personally, i don’t mind it. In fact, i think omega have earned um the right to to use it, as they did provide the majority of the watches from switzerland during world war ii.
I wouldn’t, go so far as to say it’s, stolen honor uh, for example. I mean that would be like me wearing my ancestors victoria cross, so it’s. It’s, not that bad, but it is worth highlighting that this has never been actually officially issued.
Now let’s. Talk a little bit about value. Shall we i mean price, that almost double the cost of your standard. Seamaster is certainly going to be for the most dedicated of collectors and bond enthusiasts [ Music ].
Only in conclusion, it feels very appropriate that our british superhero spying naval commander wears a watch with a coaxial escapement. Let’s, not forget the english horologist george daniels, who developed it with amiga, was considered by some to be one of the best in the world uh in his field during his lifetime.
Much in the same tradition as other english horologists for hundreds of years, like john harrison, tompeon marge, kendall, graham frodsham, and so on, who assisted in making timepieces for the royal navy.
I really do appreciate that they teamed up with the bond franchise directly to make something a little bit more special personally if they had a mid-sized version without the crazy patina, i would be all over it.
If anything, it makes me appreciate my own recent sea seamaster acquisition, but at the end of the day, while i am not, you know head over heels in love with this, it definitely is an outstanding watch and will bring a ton of enjoyment to a serious bond Fan and like the secret agent himself uh, it is extremely capable.
Ultimately, this watch is for uh. You know former sas types with easy smiles: an expensive watches. Okay, guys i’m gonna leave it there. Uh don’t forget to add your thoughts, queries opinions, all the rest of it down below, especially what you think they got right.
What would you like to change in this watch? What would you like to see in a bond watch? All your feedback is very much appreciated and i just love uh, engaging and um seeing what you guys. Think of it so do share that in the comments don’t forget to like this video uh there’s.
Also, the urban gentry store there’s, the facebook that’s, the instagram, all the rest of it anyway. You know the drill all right guys. Thank you so much for watching and i will catch you in the next one: okay, ciao
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