Some people have a bit of a love-hate relationship with iwc in talking with watch aficionados about the brand. Some will acknowledge loving a particular model, but will further confess that it’s just a bit too wide or a bit too thick for them to take the leap it’s.
A shame because iwc makes some of the best looking watches in the business. He’s up there with the top dogs on spec and truly offers a chunk of watchmaking history. That no modern brand can hope to replicate.
Well, iwc has been listening because now there’s, this, the portuguese perpetual calendar 42, and it just might be the perfect iwc watchfinder, the pre-owned watch specialist now available in france, germany, switzerland, usa and hong kong.
So we can keep on making great watch videos. I’d, really appreciate it. If you subscribed to the channel, if you already are it really does help? Thank you. One of the big draws of iwc for a lot of people, myself included, is the engineering founded by an engineer, florentine ariosto jones in 1868.
Having a watch in its collection called the engineer, the engineer and bound by a motto that speaks of solid engineering, probus cofucia iwc is a company that prides itself on making watches that no prizes for guessing are well engineered.
As many of you know, i used to be an engineer and i can see in the behavior of the company the way it develops its products that there’s, something different to your usual watchmaker. Typically, a swiss watchmaker is very traditional.
He’s, the last to embrace new technologies. We’ll. Do things the old way, even if the new way is better iwc is different, where most watchmakers are happy to follow. The tried and true methods of watchmaking iwc seeks to improve.
Watchmaker kurt klaus who joined the organization as a boy in 1956 was unsatisfied by the way a perpetual calendar, as constructed traditionally did not change all its indications. At the same time, at the stroke of midnight in case you don’t know, a perpetual calendar is a complication in a watch that allows it to tell you the exact date, regardless of month and year, accommodating changes in month length even in february, And even on a leap year, as you can imagine it’s, not an easy device to master when, following the traditional approach, let alone redesigning it from scratch.
But that’s. What klaus did designing this new perpetual calendar from the ground up hand sketching his engineering drawings. This was, of course, a long time before the cad software solidworks advancing an age-old complication that had operated in much the same way since the 1700s.
His approach enlisted a sequential operation to the movement that fed the input of the changing date down the line, rather than out in different directions for each function to react independently and it had a rather pleasing side effect.
The watch no longer needed a series of hidden pushes to adjust the day date month and year. It could all be done with a turn of the crown klaus’s; mentality for refinement that engineering approach stemmed from his training by iwc technical director albert pelaton, peloton himself.
A fastidious watchmaker engineered the peloton winding system, a mechanism that simultaneously reduces the complexity of a typical winding system, introduces two directions of winding instead of the standard one and even incorporates shock resistance into this otherwise delicate area of the movement.
He was a firm master known for his strict approach to teaching by criticizing the use of tolerance when manufacturing parts, for example, in his eyes, everything could always be improved and it was a message that stuck with a young klaus, it’s.
Also a message that resonates with the entire brand, because, whilst this portuguese perpetual calendar and the models before it both share, klaus’s, revolutionary calendar mechanism and peloton’s, ingenious winding system, it has still moved the game forwards for iwc.
Let’s, find out how so if iwc has got the engineering side of things well and truly covered? How does this new portuguese perpetual calendar improve upon its predecessor, john cleese once said, technology is designed by engineers to impress other engineers, and he’s kind of right.
There’s, a marked difference in a product that’s. Had the input of someone whose expertise is in understanding the wants and needs of the end user and for engineers that kind of mumbo jumbo is often considered folly.
Speakers are a great example, the best speakers in the world, the ones that cost as much as a row of houses that are designed by the greatest audio engineers of our generation may sound like the recording, is playing back, live right in front of you, but they’re, often ugly as sin there aren’t many people who want to gag every time they sit down to listen to a bit of diana kroll.
Now please don’t misunderstand me: previous iterations of the portuguese. The perpetual calendar are most certainly not ugly, but at 44.3 millimeters in diameter and 14.9 millimeters thick. You can tell the engineering influence of the brand one over the concession to make the watch.
Appealing to a broader audience, the portuguese has always been a beautiful looker and a big watch developed for simplicity and accuracy rather than as a work of form-led design, and for many that extreme focus on functionality has given them pause for thought, but not anymore.
The iwc. Portuguese perpetual calendar 42 is smaller around two millimeters smaller, as you can tell, by the name, but perhaps more importantly, thinner by over a millimeter, the engineers compromised for the benefit of the end user, and that makes this new model, perhaps the best of iwc.
Yet one of the big engineering boasts of the iwc perpetual calendar has been the full year display all four numbers of it right there. On the dial i mean when you think about the person wearing the watch.
There aren’t many scenarios where they need to glance at their wrist to remind themselves what year it is. So in the name of making the watch more appealing to wear that’s gone. Instead, you get a leap year indicator in the day window more than enough to set.
The watch by this not only improves the wearability of the watch, but it also eradicates an often overlooked concern of the klaus perpetual calendar mechanism that only ever seem to exist. To recalling, please again impress other engineers you see with only the crown to adjust the calendar by and no rewind capability.
Many an owner has fallen foul of ticking the date forward. One too many continuing on to navigate their way back round to the beginning. Only problem is that there are way too many years to get through and the watch must inevitably be readjusted by iwc itself.
So you lose some fidelity to borrow a speaker term, but you gain usability and it doesn’t mean the watch no longer fulfills the iwc brief of being the best engineered you can buy. If anything it’s, the opposite.
It’s, not been developed to impress klaus or peloton or any other watchmaker it’s been engineered to impress us, and i’m, pretty sure it’s. Working history is rife with incredible engineers who made incredible things that didn’t succeed, circlive sinclair’s, sinclair c5 sega’s; game gear, philips laserdisc all incredible inventions that at the time had no audience to fulfill them.
Sometimes engineering is done for engineering’s sake, fixing problems engineers want to fix, rather than ones the audience wants fixed for the iwc. Portuguese perpetual calendar 42 iwc has managed to hit that rare sweet balance right in the middle discover more exceptional watches at watchfinder.
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