Indeed, i got ta say a massive thank you to mario jewellers, a big shout out to derek in particular for making this video possible and lending in this absolute stunner. If you’re, not familiar with my jewellers, i’ve, actually used them.
I would only ever recommend somebody i’ve personally bought and sold to. In fact, i sold them my rolex submariner, and i was extremely pleased with the service. They are very professional indeed, and an authorized dealer for many many illustrious brands and, of course, seiko as well.
So here we are with this absolutely gorgeous piece now today is something very special, because this is part of a trilogy of dive, watches released to commemorate the 55 year anniversary of seiko, making dive watches.
But before we get into the history of the brand a little bit of context where we are with seiko as a brand, now it’s no secret. I have been rather critical over the last year with some of their latest releases.
It has been rather hit or miss. Their increase in prices has not been about natural inflation. It’s, more a brazen attempt to go more upscale. They do deserve it, but in re-positioning the brand and by collaborating with you know the so-called watch publications.
It has alienated a lot of the original fans. Has seiko lost the common touch in trying to woo the the yuppie crowd, the sweater over the the shoulder crowd? You know uh. Well, let me know what you think in the comments below anyway so last year.
I finally reviewed the seiko uh. It was the prospects s p, 0 cracking watch came out originally in 2017, and that also echoes the design of the 1965 original 62 mass, which this obviously takes style, cues from well very much more so than that particular watch that we reviewed in the past.
Now i remember feeling largely underwhelmed. It seems it was a rather uninspired almost rushed in execution, but, as always, psycho has triumphantly returned with this absolutely heavenly creature from the deep, but as always a little bit of backstory for those uninitiated.
As we have discussed, seiko’s, illustrious rich legacy, uh and history endlessly on the channel, in fact in many videos uh just about their history and why they are, in my opinion, the greatest watch brand of all time.
I will keep this well. I’ll attempt to keep this brief in case you’re, not aware. Seiko’s, long list of achievements and innovations um since its founding in 1892 in tokyo, japan is unparalleled in the watch world from being the first to invent quartz, watches uh in 1969, um to the first quartz chronographs and later psycho kinetic spring drive And innovations with solar and digital watches, the list of firsts, is absolutely endless.
You can start to see why i made standalone videos just about this very subject without even a watch being included to review it’s also worthy to point out, and this will become more apparent later when discussing today’s.
Watch is value. Seiko covers all price points, like no other brand in the world from entry level super affordable, mechanical watch is under a hundred dollars, which is close to impossible uh. If you don’t, have the infrastructure and manufacturing capabilities, the sake of five line, for example, or to luxury watches like the grandsaker and even super high-end tourbillons, with their creda brand, which was specifically designed to compete with the best of uh, switzerland or Germany, aside from always leading technologically and their brand’s, historic vicissitude, this spirit and coolness permeated its way into the public consciousness over the decades by gracing, the wrists of movie stars james bond endorsements and the watchers have affectionately, earned countless nicknames uh, which I’ve, also done a top 20.
check that out, if you missed it, but when it comes to dive, watches sega was actually a little late to the game. While the swiss had secured their dominance in the field in the 50s, it was not until 1965 that seiko entered the game with the iconic 16-2 mass automatic, but just like anything seiko does it soon caught up in 1966, the watch had proved its reliability and capability.
In the eighth japanese antarctic research expedition, what followed was a 300 meter diver with the highest of world standards in high beat caliber, which was 10 vibrations, a second that was in 1968. by the 70s, while the rest of the world was starting to really feel the Effect of the quartz crisis, which seiko obviously inadvertently started.
They also introduced quartz technology into their dive, watches they simultaneously conquered the extreme depths with the world’s. First professional 600 meter diver with a titanium case in 1975 and on the bequest of a professional saturation diver.
The result was the first tuner being born the model featured a world-class corrosion proof shock resistant airtight case, the accordion style band and over 20 patents licensed for the exterior alone in 1978.
The professional divers 600 meter would become the world’s. First saturation diver to feature a quartz movement which inevitably led to the inclusion of any digi technology, and in 1982 we saw the creation of the now famous arnie.
This hybrid 150 meter divert was provided with an alarm system, chronograph bilingual display. The innovation would continue way into the 80s and 90s with the world’s. First, 1 000 meter diver with a ceramic outer case, and that was in 1986, and then there was the first computerized diver in 1990.
That was the scuba master and that was equipped with the water sensor and a depth sensor, vital information, obviously, for divers. These features are very commonplace, but it was seiko doing it all before the rest of the brands.
Over the last few decades, seiko has added many complications, new materials technology and even spring drive to their divers, while the rest of the world has kind of stopped innovating in this particular field.
Let’s, not forget that [ Music ]. As always, let’s start out with dimensions. It’s just that flick under 39 millimeters uh. It is worthy to note that the bezel overhangs, so it actually wears a little bit smaller.
I would say it weighs like a 38 to be honest: it’s, 14.3 tall lag to lag. We’re, looking at 47.2 and a 19.5 millimeter lug width. So i’m guessing this will be a 19 millimeter rubber strap regarding the scale.
I believe it’s 1.9 millimeter big in diameter, but pretty much all the other measurements are very close to the um, the original um and it’s worthy to point out that this is 200 meters. Water resistant, as you see, on the dial compared to the original 1965 being 150.
, the weight is around, i think, 114 grams, so very substantial, considering it’s more restrained scale. Now what is fascinating about this particular watch, and this is why i i was adamant to mention materials and their innovation in the history section.
The steel used in this is called ever brilliant steel, which is seiko’s very own concoction. It has a quite a distinctive, brilliant white hue that gives the trilogy very much a unique look. This grade of steel is more corrosion resistant than your conventional 904 l and other steels used in watchmaking.
In fact, it’s 1.7 times harder to be exact, and this is actually the first time it’s ever been used in a watch, so very, very cool. Indeed, the material is used extensively in the surfaces, linings, bolts and other components of marine structures and vessels, deliberately, obviously to avoid corrosion in a chloride, rich environment such as salt water.
According to seiko, it presented many many challenges in the manufacturing process of these cases, but thanks to the experience and new techniques developed by the seiko team, they were able to overcome these challenges and the ever brilliant steel is now um set to bring a new level Of durability, to modern dive, watches, of course, for the luminescence we have the world’s famous and very loved lumi bright, which is just incredibly vivid and long, lasting, reacting fast to um any particular light sources and it’s on all The hands also generously applied to the markers which are applied markers along with the bezel pip.
It has quite an effective orientation thanks to the 12 o’clock, loom marker being larger and, of course we get this box sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, the band material is uh silicon.
It’s nicely textured for grip. On either sides also for added comfort, it’s. Interesting they’ve done the perforations all the way up, the strap it’s, quite a long, strap and then on the outside. We have this kind of basket, weave pattern.
Um, that gives it the very kind of retro licious. Look indicative of that kind of period and very much evolves that vintagey vibe. It’s quite soft and supple and but at the same time rigid enough to support the watch now for the bezel.
They’ve, gone 120 click unidirection and i have to say it sounds a bit like a skx bezel, but the action to it is so solid. It’s very tight, but yet easy to um to grip and turn and manipulate lines up absolutely perfect, very, very impressed with that.
This is probably one of the finest well actually the finest bezel i’ve ever felt on a seiko dive watch and i would say it’s comparable to my ceramic sub, so it definitely has a luxurious feeling of quality the insert.
I’m, not totally sure about. I couldn’t find out online. I’m guessing it’s ceramic. If anybody knows what this material is, please do comment down below now inside, as we turn it over. I have kept the sticker on because, of course, i’m borrowing this, and these are in such a low amount.
I really didn’t want to take the sticker off, but the inside caliber is the movement. 8 l 55. This is a 2009 variation of the grand seiko 9s 85 movement, but it has a different finishing but essentially the same thing, and it is a cousin of course, of the 8l35, but has some improvements.
For example, it operates at a high speed of 36 000 vibrations. An hour giving it an absolute buttery, smooth, sweep 37 joules and naturally its power reserve is also a bit higher. It can hold about 55 hours.
Its higher frequency also makes it theoretically more precise. I should also mention it is probably the highest caliber of automatic movement that isn’t the spring drive uh and above seiko throughout the 1960s.
With the lord marvel series pioneered, these high beat movements and they were among the most accurate watches ever produced by the company winning many awards and beating many accuracy competitions. It is also very alluringly decorated, with quite deep striping engraved than lacquer-filled text and magnificent high polish beveling, the accuracy out of the factory.
Well, it’s stated at about plus 15 to -10, but i can say that in reality, this one is like. Well, it’s; it’s within cost, so actually it’s just spot on. Obviously, we have quick set date manual, wind and hacking included, as you would imagine, on something on the higher end spectrum.
Well, there’s, a lot of subtle embellishment. Here. The attention to detail is just exquisite, for example, the framing of the date window, the off silver metallic looking date wheel. So it kind of matches the indices, the proportions the concentric brushing on the tops of the lugs and then the mirror polishing on the sides.
It’s, just absolutely perfectly done, seamless transitions, very razor, sharp and then, of course it’s, echoed even on the buckle that brushed edge uh the beveling on the keeper, the etched seiko i mean no expense has been spared it.
Doesn’t scream at you in luxury, but you certainly feel it. This is one of the most beautifully made sakos i’ve ever experienced and, and i’ve, worn and reviewed a fair amount of grand seiko’s too, so it’s.
Definitely up there. Talking of signage, of course, we get a signed crown which is lovely. I should mention this. Obviously, it’s, a screw down no lug guards, so it’s very in keeping with that 62 mass aesthetic.
I’m glad it’s signed. That was a one of the disappointing details of the sp b051 and look at the shape of the case. This wonderful arched kind of section and the way the bezel sits on it. This particular space here reminds me a little bit like the um squad in one five, two one with these angled off uh lugs, it’s.
Uh it’s very cool. The box sapphire sits in a manner that evokes kind of vintage tudors again. This reminds me actually on my vintage studio submariner. It gives quite pleasing distortions. I love the way they’ve included the inner ring there in a high polish that um really a volts, are kind of maritime water look.
Now we really got to talk about that blue because it is sumptuous, i mean it is absolutely bewitching. It’s, a very pleasing blue uh. I’ve, never seen a blue like it. I would say it’s um. Sometimes it’s, an aegean blue and in other lights it’s.
Quite dark and more of a peacock blue verging on kind of gray, complemented by the the strap perfectly, which i would say, is a kind of air force blue and i think it works wonderfully with the glossy black bezel insert there.
And we should also mention the texture of that dial. It’s, not exactly a sunray effect, but almost it’s a little bit more subtle than that. The hash marks are in an off-white again in keeping with the color scheme and play nicely with the periphery of the dial, with that water effect that it uh tends to have with that inner ring there.
One thing i do love and if you look at the hands they’re gently faceted and they reach perfectly to the corresponding hours and minutes uh the hours just touching the edge of those quite raised, applied markers and then, of course, we have the Paddle style for the seconds that almost touches the edge it works very well, i have to say [, Music ], so let’s, discuss the positives.
Well, first of all, it’s, an excellent size. It’s beautifully proportioned. I i think any bigger it. Wouldn’t feel vintage any smaller it just wouldn’t, please the the crowd it’s also totally in-house produced.
I mean absolutely everything from start to finish. A very, very rare achievement. Um in a watch brand these days it’s, insanely perfect in quality. This is truly a luxury watch. Unquestionably, it’s, also a very limited run of only 1100, so it will undoubtedly protect its value.
I think it’s, a alluring design, it’s, faithful to the original, while bringing new technology to the table, which i think is very important. Now, despite being a collector’s piece, it still absolutely performs impeccably.
Well, it delivers it’s, a formidable dive watch, but at the same time it’s quite elegant, and i think you could almost argue it’s, a do it or watch uh, possibly even one piece collection status. You know, which is a kind of do it or watch a bit like the rolex explorer or something of that nature, and i have to say it’s, definitely going to be a strap monster.
I love how they ‘ Ve included drill. Lug holes, so you can just pop straps in and out imagine this on the collarb or a nato strap. I mean any kind of rubber strap it’s, just the kippers knickers, so it definitely has that kind of versatility.
One of the big positives for me, i have to say i i really like the smooth high beat seconds it’s very pleasing to see it’s kind of mesmerizing. It’s um. It reminds me a little bit of my beloved space view.
I mean obviously not that high frequency, but it’s. A welcome change from the stuttering calibers that i’m used to from seiko, not that there’s. Anything wrong with that, but it’s very refreshing to see indeed, ah the negatives.
Well, what can we say about this particular watch? Well, being limited edition, it’s not going to be accessible to many people um. That is definitely a downside if only they’d. Put this out on general release.
I think it would be an absolute hit. It’s, the best sacred dive watch i’ve ever experienced yeah. It will protect the resale value, but it seems to me that seiko are well back in the day they kept all the best stuff for the domestic market.
That then changed, but now they’re, keeping the best stuff in limited editions, and this kind of goes into what i was saying earlier about a lot of the great seikos are kind of not within the reach of the majority of the people, and It’s expensive.
I mean this is a 6 300 at retail uh. While i do think it is actually worth it. If you take into consideration what it is its quality, all the rest of it, but it is far away from the honest uh tool watch roots that made seiko so great.
But i guess at the end of the day, that is what the prospect & #. 39 s line is for right. I mean, if you want a professional, you know non-luxury tool watch. I have to say that the case back is a tad boring.
While i understand that being faithful um to the original, i would have liked to see something a little bit more with something more pizzazz, so to speak. Uh you know. Maybe it’s, because i just reviewed the dan henry with his absolutely ravishing screw down case backs um.
I just would like to have seen something a bit more involved that’s all yeah. It does feel like a missed opportunity slightly, but you know what not the end of the world and also the 19 millimeter lug width.
I’ve said it several times with the yammer watchers. They love to do this too. It’s. It’s, a pain to sore straps, for i don’t understand the odd numbers. I think this could have been a 20.. So in conclusion, while at first glance it may not seem all that different, its understated look is deceiving.
It’s, innovative in its construction, an almost perfectly updated recreation that brings honor to the brand. You rarely feel like no corner has been cut here. This is probably the the perfect vintage inspired seiko, well that i’ve experienced so far.
If seiko was to create this for wider release, i think it would be up there with the submariners and the sea masters without a shadow of a doubt. This is undiluted pure class. Now guys, don’t forget to add your thoughts, comments, opinions all the rest of it down below.
Please don’t forget to like this video, especially if you want to see more reviews on seiko, watches or watches like this. Do like this video uh! Thank you very much for watching and i will catch you in the next one: okay, ciao
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