Three quarter plate hand engraved balanced with swan neck regulator, classic gothic dial design. I know the brand you think i’m talking about, but actually i’m. Not this is the dawnbruthenson, the german watchmaker, that’s, started a quiet revolution and is one of the best kept secrets in all of watchmaking watchfinder.
The pre-owned watch specialist now available in france, germany, switzerland, usa and hong kong. So we can keep on making great watch videos. I’d, really appreciate it if you subscribed to the channel, if you already are it really does help? Thank you.
Over half a century ago in the german watchmaking state of saxony, watchmaker, dieter dornbluth set about repairing a pocket watch. It wasn’t the first. He’d repair and it most certainly wouldn’t be the last, but this particular pocket watch just so happened to catch his eye.
The design was stark, clear, refined the movement exquisitely decorated. It was tedita the perfect watch. Eventually the repair work was complete and with some sorrow, the watch was returned to its owner, unable to clear his mind of that watch.
Dieter sat down that same evening, put pen to paper and designed a wristwatch based on that very pocket watch, but business came first and those plans, tucked away in a draw, were eventually forgotten.
That is until the turn of the century. When dieter’s, son dirk now two a fully fledged watchmaker presented his father with a gift for his 60th birthday. A watch he had himself made dieter understandably, was overcome and he revealed to dirk his abandoned dream of decades before.
But the dream would not be forgotten again together. As father and son, the dorbluts built that watch the watch. That would become the basis of the 99 series we have here today, but hang on you’re, probably wondering how did these two men just build? A watch? You’re right to question it.
A modern watchmaker today requires extensive and expensive milling machinery to produce the quality and quantity required, a slew of high-powered computers to design and simulate every last wheel and screw don ‘
T. Forget, though, that we’re talking about modern watchmaking here before computers before automated technology, watchmakers built, watches with their hands, it’s slow and it’s steady, but they did it and that’s.
How it’s done at d dawn, blue than sun everything, the business needed to repair pocket watches, which quite often requires the careful fabrication of unique parts in low or even sometimes, single quantities was what was needed to make wrist watches.
It was simply a matter of time as such, it takes a long time to make a dorm bluth watch there. Aren’t teams of people, banks of machines, bustling marketing departments and chains of stores, its father son, a few close friends and a room full of tools that have been on this earth at least as long as dieter himself.
The company completes just a few watches per month that’s. Why you won’t, see them in jeweller’s, windows or glitzy ad campaigns. The only place you’ll find them is in the collections of some of the luckiest owners on the planet.
What this means is that, when you order a watch from the dawn, booth and son, that watch isn’t pulled out of an inventory of stock, it’s made just for you and because it’s made just for You there is an abundance of options you can choose from to make the watch entirely unique, not a limited run of a thousand or even a hundred, a one-off piece that you and only you will own.
Let’s start with the front the bit. You read: dorm blue styles are made in the workshop, starting as blanks ground by hand for any sub-dials. The recess isn’t just engraved into the metal, but cut out completely with the sub-dial layered, underneath as another piece of brass to make it extra crisp.
The brass is traditionally coated in a silver finish, although you can have whatever color you like, you can even choose from different materials, including mother of pearl and even ceramic produced in the workshop from a hand, mixed ceramic powder, a ceramic dial, offers a modern sturdy alternative To enamel that can be finished with either a matte or glossy surface, but it gets even better.
You can choose to have printed or applied markers, whatever color sir likes, of course, but like the pocket watches of old there’s, a rather special option. You can spec instead using a pantograph, an 800 scaled-up version of the dial connected by a series of levers to an engraving tool over a dial blank, the dawn blues hand engrave every single number letter and line that would otherwise be printed onto the dial.
These engravings are then hand filled creating a deep crisp finish that you just don’t see in watchmaking at all anymore, but dawn bluth, wouldn’t, be a proper watchmaker without a proper movement and the calibre 99.
1 we see inside the Self-Titled watch is clearly something special. Perhaps then it might surprise you to learn that it is in fact, based on an etta. 6498 might seem most unexpected because it looks absolutely nothing like one and there’s, a reason it doesn’t, because don blue throws most of it away.
All that remains is the core structure of the original calibre, with everything else fashioned with traditional tools within the four walls of the workshop. The movement gets a new three-quarter plate, striped, beveled and finished in rose gold a remodeled hand engraved balanced, set with a pentagraph machined in hand, burnished swan, neck regulator, screwed gold, chatons for the setting and adjustment of the jewels and a completely reworked winding system repositioned to Include a beautifully elegant hand, polished ratchet spring and double sunburst finished crown wheels.
The balance is screwed and slowed down to a traditional 18 000 vph polished on the rim and blasted in the middle. The screws are blued by hand on a slab of metal with a blowtorch, a treatment. You can also request on the hands and applied markers if you pick them.
This is proper old world watchmaking free of technology, free of automated machinery. What you see you get from the hands of craftspeople and hey don’t like the idea of the movement being based on something else, well being watchmakers, of course, dieter and dirk wanted to make their own movement from scratch, and so the q 20.
10.1 classic provides exactly that and it’s, not just a slight reworking of the 99.1. With all new parts. It gets a double barrel setup, with an indirect drive multis cross spring to evenly feed the torque to the movement, as well as a short anchor escapement.
That allows you to see more of what’s. Going on very nice. You’re. Probably thinking, but of course they’re nice, they probably cost tens of thousands. Well, i’ve saved, perhaps the best bit until last, because no they don’t.
The 99.1 starts at four and a half thousand euro, or a thousand more with the engraved dial shown here. The fully in-house q20 10.1 classic is 8790 euro. Let that sink in as we fade to black watchmaking is big business for a lot of companies and that’s understandable.
They have a brand to maintain big bills to pay supply chains to feed, not so for the dawn. Bluthens sun. It’s like another world, detached from the rigors of modern life, where what can be admired and appreciated for such skill and expertise can live on without the shadow of overheads margins and general business weight following it.
Around dawnbluth is watchmaking at its most pure, most traditional without costing the earth and is perhaps the last and only of its kind, discover more exceptional watches at watchfinder. Thank you so much for watching this video.
If you enjoyed it, please do consider giving it a like and subscribing to the channel. If there are any watches you’d like to see featured, please let us know in the comments below
Watchfinder, the pre-owned watch specialist, is now available in France, Germany, Switzerland, USA and Hong Kong. Shop now at https://www.watchfinder.com
Watchfinder & Co. presents:
Three quarter plate; hand-engraved balance cock with swan-neck regulator; classic Gothic dial design—I know the brand you think I’m talking about, but actually I’m not. This is D. Dornblüth & Sohn, the German watchmaker that’s started a quiet revolution and is one of the best-kept secrets in all of watchmaking.
D. Dornblüth & Sohn Caliber 99.1 Medium
D. Dornblüth & Sohn Q-2010.1 Klassik
Watchfinder is the number one place to buy, sell and exchange premium pre-owned timepieces. Discover more exceptional watches at https://www.watchfinder.com
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