It is a watch i’ve owned, countless versions of um, however, and i have to state i did not intend on um purchasing this particular watch. I should explain: i’m, also not really trying to buy anything.
That’s. Why i haven’t been doing my usual amount of unboxings priorities have changed. I’ve already talked about that. I’m sure a lot of you are probably trying to save money as well. I do, however, have a kind of list, in my mind of watches, that i look out for certain amigas, the navi timer.
Obviously, if i see the right one at the right price, etc, certain seiko’s, grand seiko, especially and obviously rarer g sharks and the occasional cassio that’s, been forgotten about little hidden lost gems with unusual complications, this kind of stuff – I’m, always on the lookout for i enjoy the hunt.
You know i can’t really um step away from it. It’s, just part of the enjoyment of the the hobby i don’t know. Perhaps you are like this: perhaps you aren’t um. Do you guys experience the same thing? Please do share that below, but anyway let’s change perspective.
Let’s, take it to the light box, and then i want to come back and just explain a little bit why i went for this particular era. Now this has come from japan again as always, and i i should really say that if you’re buying, brightenings omegas, occasionally rolex definitely tudor those kind of like mid-level luxury brands.
The japanese market is just absolutely chock-a-block with bargains and i’ll. Do a knife check, as as as we’re, not really doing the wrist swatch checks, i’ll. Do a knife check yes, old benchy, the benchmade benchmark, whatever the hell it is it’s, benchmade yeah, uh old benchy is back.
Let’s get on with it. I also have to point out this arrived and it was shipped like lightning. Let’s, make the first incision you can tell my dad was a surgeon not seriously. He was so that’s. Why? I always say that anyway, there we go.
Second incision. There we go box within a box within a box within a box, i’ve, been beautifully wrapped uh. I was really impressed how quick this was. I have to say, because, considering you know the the mess that certain international mail is in right now, this arrived literally within a few days – i mean dhl – did a smashing job uh shipping it in.
So what’s? It say thank you for your purchase. I am very nervous about this, because the price was so ridiculously low. The feedback wasn’t great on the account of the the seller, and on top of that, the pictures weren’t amazing, but i took a gamble, so it could either really go both ways.
Fingers crossed right moment of truth drum roll. Please [ Music ]. Oh i see it. I see it. Oh wow, okay, oh wow! Here we go this. I think this is 1958.. Oh look at the dial. The dial is untouched lots of natural patina.
Now you’ll notice, the beads of rice bracelet, a lot of the gold has worn off. I didn’t, buy it for the bracelet. Oh there’s me there’s. Me hello, hello, behind the camera. Uh, but it is original um. What should be original? I didn’t, buy it for the bracelet.
I’m. Probably gonna take this bracelet off it’s. Gold cap. Now the the listing said gold plated, but of course i didn’t. Do gold plated with this particular model uh. It was gold capped. Now, gold capped is slightly better in my opinion, because what it is it’s, a surface added to the base metal.
Now it can come off, but it’s. Thicker and doesn’t wear off as easily as gold plating, which i think gold plating pretty sure came later correct me if i’m wrong, but what i was really looking at was the head of the watch.
The case had any of these surfaces come loose or was exposing the steel beneath and it looks in pretty good shape. There is a bit of you know. Obviously, there’s, a lot of scratches and stuff, but what i’m, what i was looking for was this configuration this particular caliber, the 500 and i’ll get into why this is such an important era.
Um. Let me just clear this all out the way. Sorry why this isn’t such a important era um, it is automatic. But of course we’ve got manual wind, oh, very, very satisfying, beautiful little 34 millimeter size, so it’s gonna fit me like an absolute glove.
Look at that! Oh my god. I’m gonna take the bracelet off and i’m going to pop it on a beautiful strap, maybe a distressed, collarb or something like that. Actually, even maybe an ostrich look at that patina applied logo.
This is one of the last great sea masters or generations of sea master before the big change in 57 pipan as well, not like not as uh exaggerated, like the the constellations, but definitely has that age and no painting or repainting of the dial.
All original. So really chuffed and i love those faceted hour markers so far an absolute success. Yes, it is very, very used, but i might as well tell you i spent uh 700 bucks. I think 750, for this is just an amazing deal.
I could not let it go. You know when we have the hippocampus on the back. Anyway, let’s, give it 24 hours, let’s. Take it back to the studio, possibly my last seamaster, now to get it into perspective, and i’ve written a list here of all the amigas i owned.
So the very first one – and this is this – is actually my first luxury watch. So my connection with amiga is very very strong here it was the midsize 300 meter, auto the smaller version of the pierce brosnan uh bond watch, famously worn by prince william, given to him by the late great princess diana.
Then i graduated so to speak. I was a larger chap back then, so i could pull it off. It was the chronograph version. Basically, a value 7750 based really cracking watch extremely solid, and this was the second generation with the applied logo, with the more finessed dial the first generation had printing.
Only. I went back to the full size, quartz very, very classic. Then i went automatic yeah. It was the brosnan, the golden eye, the official golden eye, and it was a real momentous occasion for me because i remember playing goldeneye the game on the n64.
I’ve talked about this before i’m sure. A lot of you are the same, and it just takes me back to that age, and i hadn’t really experienced a luxury watch before it’s. It’s, beautiful craftsmanship, it’s, curves that scallop bezel.
It was a bit of a grail watch, i have to to say and back then you could get them under two thousand dollars. It was crazy. Then i went vintage, probably the worst seamaster i ever owned, and it was the 1000 caliber which is notorious.
The whole 70s era for for amiga was a little bit shaky. They were dealing with the fallout from the quartz crisis. They over invested in the development of the plo prof, these kind of watches, which are very very expensive at a time when you really need to tighten the belt so to speak.
The result was a a kind of rushed 1000 caliber that family that i think it’s, the fourth generation of in-house calibers from omega. Then i had the the progenitor of the the baby plug prof. You could say some some call it.
That was the 120 meter diver, with this kind of torno shape case beautiful spider, dial and then, of course, i came back to the modern 300. I went coaxial escapement. I wanted to experience it cracking watch.
This was before they reinvented it more recently with the etch dialed. So where am i now? The dunkirk movie came out my love affair with the scene, master line, kind of ended, and i went back to the uh watches before then from world war ii.
They were really the genesis of what was to later become uh sea master. The 30 t2 based movements, which are incredibly tough, proven in war as the beautiful christopher nolan film perfectly demonstrates, with tom hardy’s, character yeah, that was the weems style pilot’s watch, but i had the spitfire.
There was an era. I hadn’t experienced and this was the 50s, and why is the 50s so crucial to amiga? Well, it was the pinnacle of their movement manufacturing. The 500 series that this watch has, by the way i’ve, put it on a lovely strap here, i didn’t, buy it for the bracelet.
I wanted it as a kind of everyday dressy piece and i have to say also it’s. It’s. Really it’s keeping great time. I cannot believe i spent 750 bucks fully automatic because and when i mean fully automatic, of course the early generation was bumper.
I’m, not sure if you guys are familiar, but it’s. Basically, instead of the rotor going all the way around it bounces off a spring and goes back and forth. This is before they had perfected. The rotor mounted and could rotate 360 degrees charmingly referred to often as the fat lugged seam master.
It’s. Very dressy and then, of course, in 1957 the trilogy came out and changed seamaster irrevocably forever into a professional dive watch and these dressy pieces, with the exception of some seymour geneves kind of hybrids.
It went into the diving world. Amiga really wanted to compete with rolex. The 300 was issued to the royal navy, which in turn inspired rolex again, this kind of cat and mouse game rivalry between the two greats rolex, of course, coming out with their meal subs, even mimicking omega with the hash marks and the wide sword, hands, etc, etc.
I realize i haven’t even done wristwatch check that’s, terrible babbling! I’m, so excited about this watch. I haven’t done, wristwatching okay, so i’m wearing the explorer talking of bond and i’m wearing it on the ellen lemayne, which i’ll, give a shout out to wrist county watch club.
I actually designed this strap it’s. The colors are inspired by uh the uniforms worn by my ancestors at the battle of el name in north africa. So a little tribute all the straps i design there’s, always a military theme, because of course i come from a military family.
There was the valor inspired by another ancestors victoria cross, et cetera, et cetera, et cetera. So this time it’s, world war ii rather than world war, one but perfectly suited, of course, to the old fleming the explorer my favorite watch.
There we go anyway, wrist watch done, let’s, get back to it. Shall we now sea master was amiga’s longest running line? It was released in 1948 to commemorate the hundred years of the brand. When i reviewed the planet ocean at 39, millimeter doing the history section, i i began to realize just how integral they are to the history of of even before dive watches or when watches became dive, watches the early marine watch of of the 30s.
This kind of thing and their involvement since the turn of the century, with the british, their history with military involvement, far precedes rolex and then, of course, you have this great age that gave birth to the most influential sea master.
The rail master, this uh speed master in 57, which this was during that that period – and i have to say as i, the whining sound is – is really i absolutely love this one. The size is perfect. I’m, getting distracted by the watch.
I really wanted the crosshair dial so and the way the little multifaceted hour, markers glisten in the light utterly bewitching. Anyway. Sorry, i’m trying to justify my my my purchase here. We’re talking about the the the the golden era of of amiga, and this is still a soft spot.
You can still find these bargains. I had my eye on a constellation, of course, another watch that was born in the 50s in 1952. They were the higher end, chronometer level kind of luxury line. Of course they’re, much more expensive and typically they do have the 500 series, this third generation of automatic movements, but you’re.
Looking at more the high end, the 504 505, which are chronometer level, they added a more advanced winding system. They were greatly improved that beautiful swan neck regulator, these kind of rock rock solid movements; okay, it’s, not the fastest beating movement.
We’re talking about 19 800 vibrations an hour. The the power reserve i haven’t really clocked it. Yet you could probably find this information online. The fact it was made start to finish in-house completely by amiga, buy a heritage brand and it ‘
S got a timeless elegance to it, and i used this word the other day. What was i using? I was using it in the sopranos video very similar to i love that word, because it has that there’s, an honesty to it, and i think it encapsulates that age, the best of amiga.
What can you say about amiga? I still love amiga, but why am i lusting after those older ones? Why have these got magic that the contemporary versions don’t? I did a whole video discussing why i fell out of love with the speed line, so don’t.
Get me wrong. I love the speed monster. Always will if you, if you pan over there, you see the um excuse me, you see the the poster not knocking the heritage, but for me the sea master, i think, is the best.
Okay. They didn’t, go to the moon, but they’re on james bond’s wrist the longest running line uh they have the most. If you look at the history, how it turned from a dress, watch and then into this military diver, then this saturation diver, the plo prof you don’t, get the same amount of variety with any other line of watches.
I don’t think in any other brand, from this little elegant madman, esque dress, watch to a plo prof, which is literally a submarine tank. It’s. Incredible. I’d love to know what your favorite sea master is.
What are you lusting after what little bargains? This is another pick up from the japanese ebay market. I’m still finding james. I have to say this, though it’s, getting harder to find clean, dials that have not been repainted, and i cannot stress that enough very lucky to find an entirely original.
Yes, the um, the bracelet is for lack of a better expression, uh cream crackered. I said to myself: even if it doesn’t perform and it’s keeping impeccable time. Okay, it’s, not cost accurate, but look it’s.
What 60 70 years old right. I think i can be a little lenient on it and even if it hadn’t been serviced or it needed the service. I know the parts are there. I’ve, had watches from this era service before they’re, not the most expensive.
There’s, still a lot of spare parts from a good reputable watchmaker. I have my guys at um. Saltzman’s, of course, god i nearly forgot their name. Saltsman’s. They’ve serviced many etas tudors amigas.
For me, no problem. I know they can find the parts, even if it needed the service, which would be what a couple of hundred bucks we’re still at the thousand dollar, just over a thousand dollar mark. So there we go um.
I’d love to end with this question: has modern amiga cheapened itself, with movie franchises with all the millions and millions of special limited editions? How do you feel the brand is? Was it better then, or are they better now? What is your opinion? Please do share down below all right guys i’m going to leave it there.
Thank you so much for watching. Please, don’t forget to check out the urban gentry store each month. There are new items, a limited run, designed by myself, of course, what else instagram facebook, all the rest of it? Please don’t forget to add your thoughts, comments, opinions all the rest of it down below.
Please don’t forget to like this video. If you enjoyed it and found it useful and as always guys, i will catch you in the next one. Oh and happy hunting uh. If you’re, looking for something like this okay, ciao [, Music, ]
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